The golden-domed Umayyad shrine on the walled platform that Muslims call the Haram al-Sharif and Jews call the Temple Mount — one of the oldest surviving works of Islamic architecture, raised over a rock claimed as sacred by three faiths and contested by two peoples.
It is the building most people picture when they picture Jerusalem: an octagon ringed in blue tile under a dome of gold. Yet it holds no congregation and is not, in the ordinary sense, a mosque. It was built to shelter a single bare outcrop of stone. Almost everything about that stone, what it is, whose it is, what happened there, is claimed by three faiths and fought over by two peoples to this day.